Walking in the Lake District: the best tips

9 February, 2024

The Lake District is a stunning nature reserve in the region of Cumbria in the northwest of England, just under two hours’ drive from Manchester. This area, filled with mountain tops, enchanting lakes and babbling brooks, is a Valhalla for walkers. Dutch blogger Richard has often camped and walked in the Lake District National Park, and he shares his tips with us.

Walking in the Lake District

• Walking near Buttermere and Buttermere Valley: Honister Pass, Lake Buttermere, Red Pike
• Walking from Windermere to Orrest Head, to a beautiful viewpoint
• Grasmere and Rydal Water, walking near a romantic village: Museum Rydal Mount, Lake Grasmere, views of Loughrigg Fell and the Langdale Pikes
• Walks near Great Langdale, centre for walking in the Lake District: Stickle Tarn, Loughrigg Fell, Loughrigg Tarn, Little Langdale, Stickle Ghyll, the Langdale Horseshoe, Dungeon Ghyll
• Walking tips for families in the Lake District
• Campsites in the Lake District

A steep climb and panoramic views

‘Pfff…,’ I sigh. I tell myself that I only have to walk a few dozen metres more. Up to the bend further along. And that’s no easy feat. The path is steep here. In fact, just like all paths in the hills and mountains in England. Hairpin turns haven’t been invented here. Once I get to the bend, I need to catch my breath first. I see my youngest son and wife coming up behind me. Here, it’s every person for themselves.

When I turn back and look around, all that effort is soon forgotten. An unforgettable panorama stretches out before me. I have a view of two lakes, Buttermere and Crummock Water, rugged mountains with deep green slopes gently rolling downwards. And with patches of purple heather, scattered carelessly. This is walking in the Lake District: usually tough going but worthwhile at the same time, because of everything you see around you. In this blog, I take you along the most beautiful routes in what is perhaps England’s most beautiful national park.

Taylor Swift sings about the Lake District

Taylor Swift sang the words: ‘Take me to the lakes where all the poets went to die. I don’t belong, and my beloved, neither do you. Those Windermere peaks look like a perfect place to cry. I’m setting off, but not without my muse.’ This region was discovered by the great English poets Wordsworth and Coleridge in the mid-nineteenth century. The rugged mountains, deep green valleys and glistening lakes of the Lake District fed their deeply romantic spirits. And they put this region on the nobility’s map and later, of the entire English population.

Walking near Buttermere and Buttermere Valley

Buttermere Valley is a perfect example of what the Lake District is like. We drove into this valley this morning via the Honister Pass. That is the best approach route. Although, this pass is certainly not the easiest. Narrow, winding roads. Steep every so often. And certainly a tough drive with our motorhome. I enjoy it. And all the more when we drive over the pass and down the other side. It is so beautiful!

That feeling only increases when we drive under the pass and into Buttermere. Buttermere slowly but surely unfolds in all its beauty. The peaks that are draped over the valley here appear first. Then the eponymous lake comes into view between the trees. And finally, you see how the mountains descend towards the lake like green sheets.

Walking near Buttermere in the Lake District

After a short rest, we continue walking. Now past Sourmilk Gill lake, which eventually brings us to Bleaberry Tarn marsh. By now, dark clouds are forming above Fleetwith Pike and Honister Pass. So, we decide to walk back and to skip our original plan of walking to the Scale Force waterfall via Red Pike (one of the mountains peaks in this valley).

You do have to be careful on the way back. Walking down a steep descent demands concentration. And when the rain sets in, we slip and lose our footing every so often. But we arrive at the bottom at the banks of the lake relatively unscathed.

We also walked here when our youngest son had just turned one. At that time, we didn’t get further than a walk around the lake itself. It is lovely that that same little chap is now following on behind me with relative ease.

Tip for a campsite in the Lake District: Castlerigg Hall

Tired but satisfied, we walk back via Crummock Water and Cockermouth to our campsite Castlerigg Hall near Keswick. It is a campsite in the Lake District where many pitches offer lovely views of Derwent Water, which is located in this valley. At other pitches, you feel like you are in the middle of nature.

It is a typical English campsite with mainly paved pitches for motorhomes and caravans. There are pitches on a grass field with tress here and there for campers with tents. Caravans and motorhomes can also park on this beautiful spot.

There is even a kitchen for touring campers. Combine that with excellent toilet and washing facilities. They are even heated too. Perhaps a bit excessive, but with the weather in the Lake District outside the high season it’s not an excessive luxury. Nor in the high season itself some times..

Campsites in the Lake District

See more campsites in the Lake district

Walking from Windermere to Orrest Head, to a beautiful viewpoint

When we were here the first time 15 years ago, we started our walk in the Lake District in the village of Windermere. And from where we walked to Orrest Head, a hill overlooking Lake Windermere.

This is an easy walk over a wide path. We first walk through a forest to reach the hill. Once at the top, we have a view that brings together all the things that make this area so beautiful. Lake Windermere at our feet. Lovely, old villages around it. Forest higher up. And the exceptional mountains of the Lake District behind that. With the Langdale Pikes as the highpoint. More about that later.

Grasmere and Rydal Water, walking near a romantic village

A few days later, we start our second walk. That is near Grasmere and Rydal Water. Grasmere is one of the most romantic villages in the Lake District. It’s small, with old houses and lovely little shops. It shimmers next to the eponymous lake. Rydal Water is a bit further to the south.

From White Moss Car Park on the A591, we walk upwards to the hamlet of Brackenfell. From there, we walk parallel with the hill towards Rydal Mount museum. From this path, we have stunning views of Rydal Water and higher up, also of Loughrigg Fell and again the Langdale Pikes: the high tops of Great Langdale, which I’ll come back to later.

Further along, we reach Rydal Mount. That is the house where the poet Wordsworth lived for years. Viewing the house provides a nice break on this walk. After crossing the A591, we walk back the other way on the other side of Rydal Water. That too is at an altitude. Later, we descend to the banks of Grasmere. It’s a wonderful and quite relaxed walk, where we encounter all the elements that comprise walking in the Lake District. This way we can slowly prepare ourselves for the serious work.

Great Langdale, centre for walking in the Lake District

My parents-in-law have arrived in the meantime. They are visiting us for a few days. On a rainy day, we want to go for a walk in Great Langdale. That is the heart of the Lake District for walkers. It can certainly be rainy here at times. We had a few wonderful days. And some less wonderful days. That is just the way it is so far up north in England.

Halfway our walk towards the lake Stickle Tarn, we decide to turn back. There’s a bit too much rain after all. And I have our youngest son aged one in the carrier backpack. And of course, he isn’t that happy with the rain.

We try it again a day later. This time at the start of Great Langdale near Loughrigg Fell. This is our first introduction to how walking in the Lake District and England works. Here, the paths are not draped through the valleys with hairpin turns. No, they go straight up. And not just a little bit either. No, simply, bham, right up.

Slow start by the water

The walk starts with a gentle stroll along Loughrigg Tarn. It’s a lake situated at the bottom of the eponymous hill. It lulls us into a false sense of security. Once we have left the lake behind us, the path suddenly bends to the right. And it turns into a gorge, straight up.

Steep ascent to Loughrigg Fell

We ask ourselves if this is the right route. But we are not the only ones walking on this path. It must be the right one. So, we start walking upwards. And it’s tough. I have our youngest son in the carrier backpack. Every so often, I feel I need to watch out that I don’t fall backwards. It’s that steep an ascent.

Our eldest, age five, thinks it’s a lot of fun. He soon realises that is he is going to be giving an epic performance. And he enjoys that. He still does 15 years later.

Happily, when we stop for a moment the view is fantastic here too. This time we look out over the valley before us: Little Langdale. And slightly further down, the lakes of Loughrigg Tarnand and Elter Water.

View from Loughrigg Fell

Once at the top, the reward is immense. We have 360-degree views. We see Lake Windermere to the south. And all this region’s crags and fells on all the other sides. That’s what they call the mountains here.

The descent is a joy. Although the weight of the carrier is tough now and then. Halfway down the descent, we reach the hill plateau called Loughrigge Terrace. From here, we have idyllic views of Grasmere, of both the village and the lake. And we can follow our walk that we did along Rydal Water.

Great Langdale 15 years later: over narrow roads with the motorhome

During a holiday in the Lake District 15 years later, after a rest day and a visit to a local country estate, we are ready for another walk. That steep climb at Buttermere is still fresh in our memories. And we know that today’s walk will not be an easy one either.

We leave our campsite, Castlerigg Hall, early in the morning. We go back along the A591 and Thirlmere, which the famous peak called Helvellyn watches over. We turn right at Grasmere. And take Red Bank along the lake. That is quite a challenge with our motorhome at such an early hour. With a width restriction of 2.2 yards, I can’t drive here. And every so often we understand why.

For the first time, my partner who, from the Dutch passenger’s seat sees the traffic coming right at her every so often, thinks it’s all a bit too much of a good thing. And certainly so soon after breakfast.

Walking from Stickle Barn

It does get us to Great Langdale before all the crowds. As this is a popular starting point for stunning walks in the Lake District. There is still space to park at Stickle Barn, the National Trust restaurant. It’s a lovely and friendly place to unwind after the walk. And to have a quick cup of coffee.

Stickle Ghyll and the Langdale Horseshoe walk

The path that we will be taking today ascends beside the barn. This is also the start of the famous Langdale Horseshoe. That is the walk that connects all the peaks up here. That would take us about six hours. We think that’s a bit too much of a good thing. We opt for an easier route. Although, easier…

The path winds through a sweet valley, past the little river Stickle Ghyll and then upwards. The river meanders here and there and drops down violently elsewhere.

Panoramic views of Lake Windermere

The walk along the river makes this a really nice path to follow. Although we go up rather steeply again a little further along. However, we are much better prepared this time. We climb up slowly but surely. With a break here and there, to have a drink. And not just to soak up some water, but also to soak up this environment. The higher we get, the more impressive that view becomes. First of the hills of Little Langdale. Of all of Great Langdale further along. And then even of Lake Windermere even further in the distance. That’s walking in the Lake District

Stickle Tarn: our walking goal

My wife has had enough by now. She descends at her own pace, back to Stickle Barn. My youngest son is still keen. Even though his face is bright red from all the exertion. And we have quite a climb ahead of us. The path disappears further along. It is more like a collection of smaller boulders. Although, they pose no problem for the little children we see clambering up around us. In English terms, this is a family walk.

Then suddenly, we are at the top. We look back for a moment. And we see Little Langdale and the peaks of Coniston Water looming up behind us. With the highpoint, the Old Man of Coniston. What a name! Stickle Tarn is ahead of us. It’s a lake with the peaks of Langdale rising up around it. Pavey Ark is on the right and Harisson Stickle on the left.

Dungeon Ghyll

It’s a job finding the right path. We walk through the grass to the east for a while. Then over a ridge to get to the right path. That takes us past another lake that flows down here: Dungeon Ghyll. It’s a lovely descent from here, with amazing views ahead of us at all times. Further along we reach a rural area with sheep, wooden gates, meadows and forests. It’s another lovely treat on this walk.

We gradually get back in the vicinity of Stickle Barn. My wife is waiting for us there, ready to order a tasty lunch. We have definitely earned that.

Walking tips for families in the Lake District

The Lake District is a walking Valhalla. There are endless possibilities, from short to very long. Here are a few more tips for walking in the Lake District:

• For young families: walks around Tarn Hows and Blea Tarn. Tarn Hows is in the stunning surroundings of Coniston Water. Blea Tarn borders Little and Great Langdale.
• Walking in Grizedale Forest between Lake Windermere and Coniston Water. Many routes are marked out here. Including a route past all kinds of artworks. All those walks start at the visitors’ centre. Read more about walking near Coniston Water.

More tips for a holiday in England or Ireland:

• Ten unique locations in England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland
• Saint Michael’s Mount: Mont-Saint-Michel’s twin brother

View website of blogger Richard (Dutch)